How Does the Kennel Kit Work?
These pictures are of testing done with Deep Seal and Top
Seal, the two products that make up the "Kennel Kit.
The left section of the slab is bare, the middle section
was treated with DS. The right section was treated with
DS which was allowed to dry one day, then the area dampened
with water. The TS was applied on a dampened surface which
was still dark gray.
Application rates were at 150 sq. ft. per gallon.... which
worked out to 7ccs per each 40 sq. in area. After a day,
3 cc s of water was put on each of the areas and pictures
taken over a period of a little over an hour. The right
hand section with the beaded water stayed like that over
24 hours with the water finally evaporating after about
This picture shows that the 3 ccs in the middle, DS section
is already spreading out more than in the left section.
The right section shows the water beaded on the DS/TS section.
Please Note: The
Top Seal product is not made for the purpose of "beading"
liquids. The beading effect is temporary... it may stop
beading after a few months or longer. The sample shows it
beading simply because I didn't have an old enough sample
which had stopped beading. Just because it stops beading
DOES NOT mean that more must be applied. It doesn't work
as surface films do. Instead, it holds the water out from
the inside out.
You will notice that over time, the water darkened area
in the middle section grows larger than the left spot. The
illustrates that on the bare concrete the water tends to
soak straight down into the concrete, while in the middle
section, the presence of the DS beginning about 1-2 mm below
the surface prevents that kind of absorption. Instead, in
the middle section the water can only go down about 1-2
mm and then it starts spreading out horizontally...increasing
the size of the moisture darkened area.
Below, the middle section after 3 minutes covers more than
twice the area of the water on the left, bare section
After 8 minutes, the center section has continued to grow
as the water spreads out horizontally because the Deep Seal
is blocking it from going down into the slab.
While hard to see at this resolultion, there is still slight
moisture on the surface in the two left sections, bare and
DS only... the beaded 3 cc.s on right on the DS/TS has not
changed at all.
By 18 minutes, there is no water on the surface, it has
all soaked in on the bare section and spread out wider in
the middle section where the DS blocks the penetration under
the surface. This illustrates that Deep Seal does NOT put
a film on the surface, instead the top 1-2 mm are devoid
of product and constitute a "bondable" surface
for the application of adhesives, paints, surface coatings,
overlays, stampwork etc.
After 22 minutes you can notice that the middle section
is starting to lighten up in color around the edges and
at some places in the darkened (wet) area... the bare section
on the left is not showing this lightening or drying.
By 25 minutes the difference in drying between the left
and middle sections is becoming more evident... with the
DS treated area getting dry faster than the untreated section
on the left, which is darker in color, indicating more moisture
The pronounced drying of the center section becomes more
evident at 38 minutes, compared to the left (untreated)
section which is still quite dark, i.e., wet.
After just under an hour, the 3 ccs of water has almost
completely dried where it was applied on top of the Deep
Seal....while the 3 ccs applied on the left untreated section
still shows dark indicated presence of water.
After a little over an hour, the middle DS treated section
is pretty much dry, but water still evident on the left.
The right Top Seal section shows the 3 cc's of water still
beaded with none having soaked in. This graphically shows
that concrete treated with DS does not stay damp or wet
as untreated concrete. This test was only 3 cc's of water...the
size of the bead on the right. If it had rained on this
slab, say 1/2 inch of rain or more, the slab on the left
would have been totally saturated and full of water... appearing
dark gray over the whole surface...while the DS treated
section would appear as it does below... because the only
water that could have soaked into the DS treated section
would have been in the top 1-2 mm of the surface... which
as you can see dries quickly. This test was done in southwest
Missouri where humidity is relatively high, and no sun hit
this slab during the test.
This is a closeup of the 3 cc's of water on the right hand
side, which was treated with DS and then TS... after 20
minutes. The area about the size of a 50 cent piece stayed
the same until it eventually evaporated more than 30 hours
after application. Had that 3 ccs of water been broomed
off, that area would have been dry in a few minutes.
However, the beading effect does not necessarily last...
it is not designed as a "beading" material. Instead
it "holds out" moisture even though the
surface tension does not create beading. The way Top Seal
works is quite different from commonly used sealers that
advertise if it stops beading you have to reapply. That
is NOT true of Top Seal because it works differently.
Here to Download a PDF showing what is on this page.
The container above was formed from just hand mixed cement,
poured into a form, then a pop can pushed into it to make
a cup like concrete container. It was treated with Deep
Seal and Top Seal. As you can see the concrete is porous...however
it holds the water and in fact, the water is arched into
a bead inside the container. This will hold water... absolutely
no absorption at all for extended periods. I have filled
these and just left them sit for 3 days during ABKA conventions
to show people the effectiveness of Deep Seal and Top Seal
to keep water out of concrete.
Notice that there is no
difference in appearance of the three sections. No change
in surface texture or color.
The Kennel Kit-- Deep Seal
& Top Seal do not alter the appearance of the concrete.
No film is created which could peel or make the concrete
The Kennel Kit is the easiest
to maintain option there is for protecting kennel floors.
Never any residual failed
product on the surface that would have to be removed in
order to maintain the system.
Deep Seal first, then put Top Seal on top... no film, nothing
to wear off and it won't make the floor slicker.
of testing done by CTLGroup.com on ASTM 609, Static
Slip Resistance of Footwear shows that a concrete floor
done with Deep Seal and Top Seal will exceed OSHA recommendations
for safe floors whether wet or dry.
Here for Data Ask for data if you're interested in figures
for comparison with other floors.